This is An adjustable equipment allows you to return the strut to the original camber position after dismantling and re-assembling the suspension or to check the amount of camber change before re-installing. In-Kind Shooting
Specification: Measures the Camber and Caster angle on the wheel hub or brake disc Suitable for accurate checking of the castor and camber angle Has a simple leveling adjustment from -5 degrees to 5 degrees Magnetic gauge attaches to the hub or disc brake Allows adjustment to maintain correct wheel alignment and even tyre wear Time and money saving device Easy to read and convenient to operate.
Well, This May be not by any means the best amp; most expensive tool on the market for caster/camber alignment. However, if you are exchanging existing parts, it can be very accurate. So long as your existing chassis components are properly aligned, you can replicate the accuracy. First clean all the areas to make any necessary index marks on your X, Y, amp; Z axis points. I use a variety of tools in conjunction with this one. A wire brush, machinist protector, combination square, and scratch awl. Remember, you MUST look at the assembly three dimensionally before loosening any fasteners. Dial in the tool, then begin the service. This tool works well when used properly.
A Helpful tip For.......Toe in amp; Toe Out, pay close attention to your tie rods (Outers for example). Make a TDC index mark before disassembly,
then loosen the retention fastener and separate the tie rod ball joint. While maintaining the TDC line keeping it perpendicular to the ground,
count the number of revolutions it takes to spin the old tie rod end off. Then match the old tie rod end to the new one. IF the dimensions are EXACT
in every way, then spin the new outer tie rod end onto the tie rod. Spin it the same amount of revolutions all while ensuring the TDC line stays
completely perpendicular, then STOP. Put the ball joint back together putting the castle nut on hand tight to hold it. Then snug up the tie rod
retention fastener to the tie rod end again keeping the TDC index mark perpendicular using an appropriate tool to hold the tie rod itself. Tighten everything to spec, install the cotter pin in the castle nut KEEPING THE TDC MARK perpendicular. Don't forget to grease the zerk fitting.
You could use this method for years and have your toe in amp; out checked digitally getting new tires. The mechanic on duty couldn't believe You achieved driver side 0.001 amp; 0.002 passenger side accuracy...by hand!